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The Bodice

I’m grateful the pattern resizing angels were watching over me during my initial redraft of the Maggie Mae Tunic/Dress by Schwin and Schwin. The only piece I had to fix was the bodice! Here is a before picture:

The lower bodice fit perfect with an exact ease so I didn’t want to do anything to the upper bodice that would make me have to change the lower bodice. I came up with two ideas.

The first idea was since I only had an issue with the gap at the neckline and the lower part of the bodice was perfect that I could made a graded (slanted) line that would eliminate the extra fabric at the top.

The second idea was to take the whole bodice piece in 3/4″ (since the extra fabric equaled 1 1/2″) along the A/B edge of the bodice and redraw the lines.

I decided to go forward with the second idea. Things I thought of that would be wrong with the first idea were this:

1.) For the upper bodice piece on the fold (front) the lower part of the bodice would be a vintage sweetheart shape, not the nice rounded edge.

2.) Because the fold is slanted considerably the boat neck shape and consequently the shoulder would have been altered by implementing this idea.

The lower bodice fit perfectly however I added 1″ to the bottom edge of this piece for personal preference. I wanted the seam below my bustline and it wasn’t quite there. Adding 1″ made it PERFECT!

You will have to excuse the big blogger no no…but I couldn’t wait to share the final result so I had to take a selfie (a self portrait). I will post some cute pictures with the nice camera as soon as I can grab a few minutes from my husband. I was pretty sure you all wouldn’t mind though!

 

The Maggie Mae Skirt

The Maggie Mae skirt will haunt me. Maybe because I’m SO excited to make this for myself I lost track of measurements. It might be because it was just rectangles and golly those things are crazy to work with! It was a good laugh all around and what fun is sewing and creating if we can’t laugh along the way?!

Here is what I did wrong the first time. I took my waist measurement and added my ease. Why was this wrong? The lower bodice is NOT fitted so my skirt was too small.

Try again, right? Yup! Second time I measured my lower bodice and added my ease of 4″. Why was this wrong? Well…lets just say my mama hips didn’t have enough clearance.

Third time is the charm? YES! I finally achieved the Maggie Mae skirt I wanted by using this formula:

1.) Measure waist.

2.) Double that measurement.

3.) Account for seam allowance.

4.) Make sure it clears your hip measurement. If it doesn’t, add a little more. Best advice, you can always cut off can’t always add more!

After you cut your skirt, cut your skirt band the same width. As I posted previously I used a 10″ width for my skirt and a 6″ width for my skirt band.

It will be a full looking skirt but you will see in the next post the fullness taken in by the small pleats or gathers compliments the top perfectly. Lets start working through the changes I made in the bodice of the Maggie Mae Tunic/Dress pattern by Schwin and Schwin!

First Fitting for My Maggie Mae

If you’re happening on this post and have missed the beginning of this adventure check out the inspiration post and the resizing post before you continue reading here or you’ll be a tad confused.

After you have resized the pattern pieces you need to test your pattern. This is usually called a muslin since it is sewn out of muslin fabric. I’m so bad about making a test sew. I have such a narrow window of sewing time for me that I usually just adjust a pattern as I go and leave the muslin for the fancy stuff. Not recommending this approach, just being honest.

Since circumstances demanded a muslin this time I got out some of my cute, spare solid fabric and started cutting. If it worked I had a cute top, if not, I was just down some solid fabric. I constructed the pattern exactly how it is written. The directions were great too so a big THANK YOU to Schwin & Schwin.

This is a shot of the side seam. If you remember from the resize post I doubled the seam allowance. So when I sewed the side seams together I used a 5/8″ seam allowance.

To finish the seam I turned the raw edge of the seam under the seam allowance and topstitched the underarm catching the top of the seam.

So here it is on for the first fitting for my Maggie Mae! The ONLY fit issue I had for the bodice was the gap at the neckline. Not bad! I will cover my ideas to remedy this in the next post.

Have any of you been inspired to start resizing a pattern yet? Which one?